My First Time in Egypt
Blog post cover image: Me by the Sphinx - photo taken by Sara Saad (2002)
One of the most striking memories from my childhood was the very first time I saw the Egyptian pyramids on TV.[1] Those breathtaking monuments had such an impact that thereafter I would look forward to the monthly mail delivery of National Geographic with great anticipation. When it arrived, I would search through the pages (many, many times). There were always fascinating places and photos, but when an issue came that had something on Egypt, I would be utterly thrilled, and the copy would become part of my personal library (my precious). I would seek out and read anything I could find about Egypt, which was extremely limited in the library of my small town in northern British Columbia. My mother though encouraged this interest of mine and would often buy me books on Egypt for my birthday or Christmas! (Thanks, Mom!) This passion however, turned into desire; I wanted to become an Egyptian archaeologist!
So, many years and jobs pass (life happens) and I finally, eventually get that opportunity to go to Egypt for the first time. You may think you know a lot about a country, but until you step onto the (Red and Black) land you cannot fathom the reality. I was travelling alone (coming from an excavation in Syria) and remember the long drive into downtown Cairo from the airport and being absolutely assailed by the sights and sounds.
I don’t think I had ever seen so much traffic! Four cars across in two-lanes of traffic, all beeping and honking! Even after all these years, I will still not drive in Cairo! I don’t think I will ever learn the difference between a car horn that is saying I’m passing on the right, or I’m passing on the left, I’m stopping or turning, or telling me to hurry up or slow down. I’m sure there is probably some logical rhythm to it all – as Egyptians seem to manage – but I have not been able to decipher it.
Amongst the throng of cars, both ancient and new, you will find motorcycles (carrying 4 or 5 people), donkey carts, bicycles, and perhaps even a camel or two in the back of a pickup truck. It is the most wonderful, fantastic, adventurous sight just driving around this city. I should say riding as I wasn’t doing any of the actual driving!
Camels in the back of a pickup truck in Cairo (2002).
Delighted, I still managed to snap this photo from inside our van.
Even when I arrived at my hotel (off Tahrir Square) I was thrilled at the beautiful art deco building we would be staying in for a few nights, before heading out in the field (in the Sinai). This city never sleeps, but you will know it is approaching morning when you hear the roosters crow. Back then (2002) there still seemed to be plenty of houses downtown with their own flock of chickens.
We did find time between visits to the Antiquities department, trying to track down our permits, and purchasing field supplies, to make a trip to Giza. Now, I’d like to say that it was perfection, but the first thing I saw on approach were the American fast-food chains just outside the gates to the plateau. It just felt wrong!
However, once we threaded through the maze of hawkers, children and stray dogs, we got to security, purchased our tickets and passed through the gates. I had already travelled to numerous places around the world during my time in the Navy, but nothing prepared me for the complete awe I felt. I’d like to say I just took it all in like a professional archaeologist should, but I was so utterly overwhelmed that when I stood across from the Sphinx, tears just started rolling down my face.
The immensity, technology and grace involved in the construction of this Wonder of the World cannot be gleaned from the pages of a book or even from a high-definition video. Experiencing it in person is the only way to really comprehend these massive and majestic monuments.
Giza Plateau (2002)
You will never forget the first time you see this in person!
The desert heat, the camels, the lovely, smiling people add to the experience (if you are willing to embrace it with an open mind). For anyone who has ever wanted to go to Egypt, my advice is just to go.
I have returned to Egypt for vacation and for work many times over the years since that first, impressionable visit. Yes, it has changed, and continues to change, just like the rest of the world, but I still find wonder and pleasure every time I go. Some things have improved, and some have not, but if you keep this quote by Robert Louis Stevenson[2] in mind, you will fair well.
“There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.”
